Water that is pushed ahead of storms and
typically moves on land as exceptionally high tides in front of
severe ocean storms such as hurricanes. Storms and storm
surges can cause some of the most dramatic and rapid
changes to the coastal zones, and they represent one of the
major, most unpredictable hazards to people living along
coastlines. Storms that produce surges include hurricanes
(which form in the late summer and fall) and extratropical
lows (which form in the late fall through spring). Hurricanes
originate in the tropics and (for North America) migrate
westward and northwestward before turning back to the
northeast to return to the cold North Atlantic, weakening the
storm. North Atlantic hurricanes are driven to the west by
the trade winds and bend to the right because the Coriolis
force makes objects moving above Earth’s surface appear to
curve to the right in the Northern Hemisphere. Hurricane
paths are further modified by other weather conditions, such
as the location of high and low pressure systems, and their
interaction with weather fronts. Extratropical lows (also
known as coastal storms and nor’easters) move eastward
across North America and typically intensify when they hit
the Atlantic and move up the coast. Both types of storms
rotate counterclockwise, and the low pressure at the centers
of the storms raises the water several to several tens of feet.
This extra water moves ahead of the storms as a storm surge
that represents an additional height of water above the
normal tidal range. The wind from the storms adds further
height to the storm surge, with the total height of the storm
surge being determined by the length, duration, and direction
of wind, plus how low the pressure gets in the center of the
storm. The most destructive storm surges are those that strike
low-lying communities at high tide, as the effects of the storm
surge and the regular astronomical tides are cumulative. Add
high winds and large waves on top of the storm surge, and
coastal storms and hurricanes are seen as very powerful
agents of erosion. They are capable of removing entire beaches,
rows of homes, causing great amounts of cliff erosion, and
significantly redistributing sands in dunes and the back beach
environment. Very precise prediction of the height and timing
of the approach of the storm surge is necessary to warn
coastal residents of when they need to evacuate and when it
is not necessary to leave their homes.
Like many natural catastrophic events, the heights of
storm surges to strike a coastline are statistically predictable.
If the height of the storm surges is plotted on a semilogarithmic
plot, with the height plotted in a linear interval and the
frequency (in years) plotted on a logarithmic scale, then a linear
slope results. This means that communities can plan for
storm surges of certain height to occur once every 50, 100,
300, or 500 years, although there is no way to predict when
the actual storm surges will occur. It must be remembered
that this is long-term statistical average, and that one, two,
three, or more 500-year events may occur over a relatively
short period, but averaged over a long time, the events average
out to once every 500 years.
Storms are known to open new tidal inlets where none
were previously (without regard to whether or not any homes
were present in the path of the new tidal inlet), and to close
inlets previously in existence. Storms also tend to remove
large amounts of sand from the beach face and redeposit it in
the deeper water offshore (below wave base), but this sand
tends to gradually move back onto the beach in the intervals
between storms when the waves are smaller. In short, storms
are extremely effective modifiers of the beach environment,
although they are unpredictable and dangerous.
See also BEACH; HURRICANE.
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